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Mal Pais

View from Vista de Olas Bungalows

Inside Scoop

Mal Pais is actually three small towns stretched along the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula. From north to south they are called Santa Teresa, Playa Carmen, and Mal Pais. The road is not paved for the last 10 kilometers, but at least the dirt is scraped smooth at the beginning of each dry season. The light brown beaches with green hills behind them bring tourists that prefer nature over nightlife. There are a few late night fiestas and it is growing at a suprising pace, so hopefully the iguanas and monkeys won't be moving out anytime soon. For more info on Mal Pais, check out : www.malpais.net and www.malpaisbeach.com.

One of Santa Teresa's right point breaks

The Waves

In Mal Pais, the beach break has a lot of rocks sticking out, especially at low tide, which makes it a little sketchy on some of the drops, but also a hollower wave. There are also a couple of left points at the south end of town. Playa Carmen is a long and wide stretch of open beach where most of the surfers go since it breaks a little bigger there than other spots. There is a powerful shorebreak and when the swell is big can break very far on the outside. It can handle well over double overhead surf, but will mostly closeout on the sets. Farther north in Santa Teresa and some smaller beaches has a series of rocky reefs that break left and break. The reefs need waves overhead or better to work.

Sunset ferry across the Gulf of Nicoya

Getting There

To drive there over land it would take a good 7 to 8 hours, not all of it on a paved road. To shorten the trip to five hours, you can take the ferry from Puntarenas to Paquera, which is a scenic journey in itself. The quickest way is to fly from San Jose to Tambor on either Sansa or Nature Air, and then arrange a taxi for the final 45 minute ride. (Remember these airlines don't take boards over 7 feet)

Here is the high season ferry timetable (effective 2/1/08)

from Puntarenas
from Paquera
5:00 a.m.
TB 1
5:00 a.m.
TB 2
7:30 a.m.
TB 2
7:30 a.m.
TB 1
10:00 a.m.
TB 1
10:00 a.m.
TB 2
12:30 p.m.
TB 2
12:30 p.m.
TB 1
3:00 p.m.
TB 1
3:00 p.m.
TB 2
5:30 p.m.
TB 2
5:30 p.m.
TB 1
8:00 p.m.
TB 1
8:00 p.m.
TB 2
10:00 p.m.
TB 2
10:00 p.m.
TB 1
Get there at least an hour before the ferry leaves to ensure a place. TB 1 fits about 40 cars, TB 2 fits about 160 cars. When you get there, park in line. Then a guy comes around to each car and gives you a card. You use that card and go to the ticket counter to buy your ticket (~$10 for car and $1.50 pp)

Dry season offshore winds all morning

Hotels

Name
Contact
Phone
Location
Price
Email
2640-0524
Playa Carmen
$80+
Mar de Luz Hotel
E-mail
2643-3259
Playa Carmen
n/a
E-mail
2887-4213
Mal Pais

$85+

Email
2640-0320
Santa Teresa
$65+
Flor Blanca Resort
E-mail
2640-0232
Santa Teresa
$675+
The Place Resort
E-mail
2640-0001
Playa Carmen
$50-$250
Email
2640-0183
Mal Pais
$90+
E-mail
2640-0067
Mal Pais
$130+
Beija Flor Resort
n/a
2640-1007
Mal Pais
n/a
E-mail
2643-0379
Playa Carmen
$65+
Ritmo Tropical
E-mail
2640-0174
Santa Teresa
$47+
Email
2640-0694
Playa Carmen
$35+
Email
2640-0420
Santa Teresa
$80+
Email
2640-0095
Santa Teresa
$60+
Recommend your favorite spot.
House Rentals
Tres Monos Beach Rental Houses
Email
640-0367
Mal Pais
$180

Friendly diners at Vista de Olas

Surf Shops

Name
Contact
Phone
Rentals
Lessons
Denga Surf Shop
2640-0458
y
n
Eclipse Surf Shop
E-mail
2642-0489
y

y

Mal Pais Surf Shop
E-mail
2640-0173
y
y

Surf Camps

Name
Contact
Phone

Location

Mal Pais Surf Camp
E-mail
2640-0031
Mal Pais
Puravida Adventures
E-mail
415-465-2162
Playa Carmen

Recommended Tours

Name
Contact
Phone
Fax
Eco Tours Montezuma
2642-0467
n/a
Free Willy Tours
n/a
2821-7357
857-4857
Turismo Curu
2641-0004
n/a

Sunrise at Casa Cecilia in Santa Teresa

 

 

 

 

 

Luz de Vida Resort in Santa Teresa

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